"A way to live." "Somebody gave me the chance to do something beautiful, and when you are working on something beautiful, you don't feel the pressure," he says. But the applause, he remembers, "was like the biggest hug I've ever felt in my lifetime. Alessandro Michele (Italian pronunciation: [miˈkɛːle]; born 25 November 1972 in Rome) is an Italian fashion designer.In January 2015, he was appointed creative director of Gucci, the Italian fashion luxury house where he had been working since 2002. See more ideas about alessandro michele gucci, alessandro michele, gucci. "I asked him about his own personal aesthetic," Pinault says, referring to Lee, "and then tried to find if there was any compatibility between the designer and the brand. As the two exchanged messages, Michele remarked that he had no idea what Attili looked like. In 2017, Alessandro was listed as one of Hypebeast’s HB100, an award that is given to the top 100 most influential people in the fashion industry. Alessandro Michele with his team on the runway after his first Gucci show. "I need the separation. These weren't his boldest hues, which would come later, but they were surprising, under-appreciated ones: the gunmetal end of the blue spectrum, the rustier shades of brown, each sometimes throwing a pure, vivid red into more brilliant relief. But they talked and talked – about the more joyful culture that the company needed, about history and art and life, about how fashion is so much more than merchandise. I'm trying to say that fashion is a platform. We sit on a green velvet sofa under a dazzling coffered ceiling in his office in a palazzo that was built in the early 16th century according to plans by Raphael. He is responsible for all of Gucci's collections and global brand image. It was titled Cyborg, and the dragon wasn't the half of it. I was trying to find a new energy in the street, not in the jet set." Photo by Adam Katz Sinding. ", The success that Gucci has had with that approach was a factor in Pinault's decision earlier this year to appoint the unknown 32-year-old British designer Daniel Lee as the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, which Kering also owns. As Michele fusses with sleeve lengths and frets over colour combinations, Björk's Utopia album plays in the background. Michele, 46, has been the creative director of Gucci since January 2015, and he's here now on two main pieces of business. He is a talented person who has been associated with Gucci for the last 12 years. "Probably it's true," he says, "because in a way, it's like, I don't care about fashion. It’s like the return of a Tom Ford era. Four male models charting varying degrees of androgyny wander in and out, quickly changing clothes. The message and the dream are more important than a beautiful suit.”, Michele himself alluded to Tom Ford in an interview with W in December: “Tom worked with this idea that sexiness was like a god, something you could adore and wanted to be. He grew up in the heart of the city, to parents who revered the arts and had the resources to enjoy them and expose him and his sister to them. In 2017, Alessandro was listed as one of Hypebeast’s HB100, an award that is given to the top 100 most influential people in the fashion industry. I was not a peacock. This vantage point, about 10 storeys up, is why he stays in this suite in this hotel whenever he's in New York. It was fast. When Alessandro Michele made his catwalk debut as Creative Director of Gucci, his aesthetic changed the face of fashion. The Jackie bag embodied the jetsetter of Gucci’s reign in the 60s and 70s. Others had masks obscuring their faces. Alessandro Michele – Net Worth. But they're also for being, breathing, dreaming. It has to be a licence, setting you free and giving you the tools to figure out your own. He ponders that for a few seconds, letting it sink in. You just have to decide. Alessandro Michele, Gucci'nin kreatif direktörü olarak görevine başlayalı sadece 2 yıl oldu ama o yüksek moda dünyasında gerçekleştirdiği romantik devrimlerle uzun yıllardır bu koltuğun sahibi gibi. He's making clothes that everybody can enjoy." He's unrestrained with colour, promiscuous with layers and gaga for floral patterns, animal imagery and corporate logos. He's a fop. "It's beautiful. It's hard to deny that Alessandro Michele's influence on the fashion world has been anything other than both phenomenal and ubiquitous. After years of steady growth, quarterly sales had begun to slow in 2013, as Giannini's repertoire wore thin. That changed in a blink, in one of the most unexpected and consequential fashion stories of the last quarter century. It's natural. Why Alessandro Michele's Eclectic Gucci Debut Was the Most Agenda-Setting Show of the Season. "I love the house because it's like it's falling down every year," Michele says. It was a formal invitation – accepted – to make clothes together (for Gucci's autumn 2016 collection). We know it’s good—the more you get recognized by your friends and a bigger audience,” he concluded. Alessandro Michele is an Italian fashion designer. But you don't need a certain bearing or taste. At the show, guests entered at the rear of the usual show venue making their way through hair and make-up into the main show space. And a revolution is what Alessandro Michele promised at Gucci.” While Gucci might be considered anachronistic in some of its visual output, Michele's tenure has also seen some very modern changes. Michele sparks when he mentions them. It didn't turn heads. One such person is Simone Marchetti, fashion editor at the Italian newspaper La Repubblica and someone who might be said to embody the new peacock archetype, and not just because he can usually be counted to wear Michele’s Gucci head to toe. “He’s just very down-to-earth,” John says of the designer.Credit:Getty Images. Here, a few things to expect from the new Gucci now that Michele’s at the helm. Photos: How Gucci’s Alessandro Michele Changed “Peacocking” The “new” peacocks don’t get care about attention from the opposite sex. First created in 1961, the bag was redesigned throughout the following decades. 1. Gucci's creative director addressed the controversy over the brand's $890 sweater that was criticized last week for its resemblance to blackface. “As ‘peacocks,’ men are more free now than ever before,” he said. They just crave attention. After Versace's death, John thought he'd never gravitate to a famous designer's apparel again. Popular culture certainly wasn't staying inside that box; just a year earlier, the pioneering television dramedy Transparent had debuted to enormous interest and huge acclaim, and less than six months later, Caitlyn Jenner would appear on the cover of Vanity Fair. ", Michele with Elton John and John’s partner David Furnish at a Gucci launch in London. Michele earned most of his wealth from being the creative director of Gucci, an Italian luxury brand of fashion. The village has a year-round population of about a dozen, largely because the earth under it is crumbling and the structures require constant maintenance. Once upon a time, when Michele first broke free of anonymity, the sensibility he instilled into Gucci — eccentric, eclectic, inclusive — posed a challenge to the industry. Then, to prove his respect, Michele teamed with Dap for a joint line of apparel and set him up to work on it in an impeccably restored corner brownstone in Harlem whose lowest level, just beyond an ornate gate, is an atelier with a wall of blood-red drapes facing the street. This is just one of the reasons why the Italian fashion giant is by far the mightiest brand to come out in support of a move to a more efficient, less wasteful fashion system. No stranger can decree that. It's now Gucci's design headquarters. Take, for instance, his spring campaign, where his fascination with gender is on plain view: an actual male peacock, down to its brilliant spotted ‘eye’ tail, is center stage, acting as a mediator between two men underground in a Berlin metro station. The Gucci bomber jacket inspired by Harlem designer Dapper Dan. Like most of the fashion industry, Alessandro Michele has been using the lockdown period to reflect while self-isolating at his home in Rome – reaching some major decisions about the future of Gucci in the process. Both the clothes and the voluminous notes that he distributes at the shows betray an erudition and a roving, restless mind that have a lot do with his deep roots in Rome. Göz onunda olmayı başından bu yana reddeden Michele, Gucci defilelerinin sonunda selam vermekten bile kaçınıyor. Known for his maximalist designs, Alessandro Michele relaunched Gucci's popularity with a Geek-Chic props. I was not gay. "You don't know how long it will be there. He says that he was contemplating the nature of identity today: how everything from the poses you strike on social media to the accessibility of cosmetic surgery allows you to hide, expose or wholly transform yourself. I have no idea how they all hang together – but then I don't think that I'm supposed to. That's integral to the traction that Gucci has found with young consumers. His reaction to the graffiti artist Trevor Andrew, aka Gucci Ghost, who in late 2013 and 2014 scrawled the label's signatures all over Brooklyn and Manhattan, wasn't a copyright infringement suit or a cease-and-desist order. It's not bello, or "beautiful". After debut shows that were deemed acceptable for Gucci by the fashion set, the world’s been waiting for something that surpasses that from Gucci’s new CD, Alessandro Michele. Gucci wants to change show business. ", Some fashion insiders muttered privately that Gucci had gone mad. "The perception of Gucci as a fashion authority, as one of the trendsetters, was declining," he says. He used both female and male models, so interchangeable in their looks that they became a grand, genderless blur. The Jackie bag embodied the jetsetter of Gucci’s reign in the 60s and 70s. You can lead different lives. "It was a way for me to see if Alessandro was willing to take risks," Bizzarri recalls, "because considering the kind of turnaround that I had in mind, I needed a person who was willing, like me, to take big risks – and maybe make big mistakes. Or, rather, the business of shows. "Jared is a kind of shaman, like a new Jesus of pop culture – long hair, beautiful face, a crazy way to show himself. Maybe even she wants to be completely ambiguous.”. Michele had just gotten a new laptop, and a friend was showing him how the Facebook precursor Myspace functioned, insisting that he sign up. It's tonight. "And he was right. "I didn't believe it, you know, until Cinderella saw the carriage – the carriage with all the horses," Dap tells me when I drop by. In January 2015, he was appointed creative director of Gucci, the Italian fashion luxury house where he had been working since 2002. It's the result of life, of trying to find the right way to live in New York." ", His longtime romantic partner, Giovanni Attili, is a professor of urban planning whose scholarship has focused on such subjects as the Haida Nation, an Indigenous tribe in British Columbia. Once again, Alessandro Michele has made it clear how he sees the future of Gucci. Gucci Unveils Cruise 2021 Lookbook, Starring Alessandro Michele's Design Team The new season features collaborations with Disney, Doraemon and more. Read more: Gucci Celebrates The Alessandro Effect. I was really bad.". He cites the collection with the dragon, his autumn 2018 womens- and menswear show. There are, for example, the collaborators he chooses and the celebrities he pulls into his orbit. “Men got bored with classic dressing. ", The "fashion industry" isn't something Michele cares to dwell on or in. And it's coupled with his insatiable appetite for reading, roving, learning. That goddess of Tom has changed. In Italy, especially in Florence, it’s thrown about constantly to label a certain strain of flamboyant street style personality. Before we know it, Valentine’s Day will be here, then Pancake Day and Easter, and at some point the clocks will go forward, finally granting us sunlight till way past 5 o’clock. Indeed, we did analyze the creative u-turn Mr. Michele did in his very first collection itself. "He's managed to do maximalism in a very chic way, and that's perfect for your Instagram grid or your Instagram story." Michele with Elton John and John’s partner David Furnish at a Gucci launch in London. He's messy and mesmerising. ", And fashion must reflect that, too. ", "Rome is in Alessandro's veins," says Elisabetta Proietti, who taught him when he was a student at the Accademia Costume & Moda, a three-year school with a single program in both fashion and costume design just a few short cobbled blocks from the Gucci headquarters. The LGBT consonant cluster was being elongated, litigated and traded in for more flexible banners like queer and genderqueer, and "binary" was suddenly a dirty word. François-Henri Pinault, the chairman and CEO of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Gucci, says before Michele took the reins, the problem at Gucci wasn't really sales, which remained respectable. Alessandro Michele first presented his version of the handbag, the Jackie 1961, for the men’s Fall Winter 2020 fashion show. Above all, it didn't communicate anything specific about its time. It’s not important for them,” he said. "I thought that it was such a normal thing." You can feel it,” he said. But tables turned once Alessandro Michele gained his position as Creative Director of Gucci. "There is a mix-and-match of the Victorian and 1930 and everything," he marvels, and if the rapture in his voice is put on, then he's as much an actor as his friend, Jared Leto. What if they scratched it and swapped in a collection by Michele? It's a reflection of our life, you know?". They expand and even explode the old parameters around gender, sexual identity, race and nationality, and Michele takes that journey with them, even leads them on it, giving them a uniform for it, a visual vocabulary with which to express it. The way you look is the way you live." Alessandro Michele’s Lockdown Diaries Reveal A Major Change To Gucci’s Show Schedule. Then what is important? I sometimes wonder if he was put on this earth to liberate fashion writers from the adjective "sleek" and acquaint them with "magpie". You can decide to be different things. Edited version of a story first publish in The New York Times T Magazine. The clothes kept pace with that eccentricity: royal blue turbans, a multitiered black pagoda hat and colourful patterned head scarves. © 2018 The New York Times. The second piece of business is the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute benefit. Gucci was about to present its new autumn 2015 menswear collection, and Giannini had essentially finished it. "Frankly," Nef tells me, "these were nerdy topics I was rarely able to engage with people in the fashion industry about. How Alessandro Michele made Gucci great again From the glamour of Tom Ford to Frida Giannini’s pared-down approach, the house of Gucci has reinvented itself several times. How Alessandro Michele made Gucci relevant again ... Michele subsequently changed. Why pretend otherwise? Michele makes that possible. “He’s just very down-to-earth,” John says of the designer. I'm not really inspired from fashion. When you step out of Gucci's Renaissance digs and glance to the right, you can see a bridge over the Tiber lined with baroque sculptures designed by Bernini and, on the far side, the cylindrical hulk of Castel Sant'Angelo, built in the second century by the Roman emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for his family. Where Tom Ford's Gucci – spanning a decade, beginning in 1994 – was minimalist, emphasising glamour, Michele's is hectic, emphasising irreverence. "He's one of those guys who, despite the size of the brand, despite the power of the brand, says, 'This is my personal creative universe, and I will work with that and the icons and symbols of the brand to create something new,' " Pinault explains. "Fashion now is like an old lady that is dying on a bed," he said in Harper's Bazaar last year. Browse the latest collections, explore the campaigns and discover our online assortment of clothing and accessories. "It was just the view of a beautiful landscape in Canada," Michele recalls. "I'm more than shy. They bounced around in his head, too. And at the same time, something very attractive. "Your life can be like a laboratory. In Rome, I watch Michele work with about a dozen colleagues on his spring 2019 menswear collection. "I'm not shy in my private life, but I'm really shy when I have to go out in front of a lot of people," he says. At the show's end, instead of taking a solo bow, Michele brought his whole team on-stage with him, which was another declaration that a new day had dawned. Over the next weeks, months, and years their impact on Gucci, holding company Kering, and the world of fashion would be considerable. Gucci’s influence is not just economic. He's selling a sensibility: eccentric, eclectic, inclusive. But since becoming Gucci creative director, Alessandro Michele has redefined the meaning of the phrase with collections for the storied Italian house that play with traditional concepts of masculinity and menswear. “I am no anarchist. "I was very surprised," he says, because it wasn't a considered provocation or political statement. You still need a certain budget for Gucci. It was happening in the world; it needed to happen in fashion: "This is not a time when fashion can stay inside a box.". Their highly original vision for Gucci, aesthetically and culturally, was a complete departure. Gucci has debuted its Cruise 2021 collection, presented as a lookbook and accompanying livestream starring members from Creative Director Alessandro Michele ‘s design team. Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci, announced this week on Instagram that the brand will be reducing from five to two shows per year, citing (at length and in a … The company was founded by Guccio Gucci who was working as maitre d’hotel in London. "So I spent time in front of these beautiful statues and all these faces and bodies. By Nicole Phelp s. April 14, 2015. Alessandro Michele works, he admits, by subtracting, adding and moving around designs and shapes. She wants to be the goddess of the streets, a goddess of tenderness. Alessandro Michele is interested, always, in shifting our point of view – in challenging, provoking, and playing. "I thought, 'Wow, I guess I'm going to the ball.'. But then things changed. Alessandro Michele with his team on the runway after his first Gucci show. He is a responsible person for all of Gucci’s collections and global brand image. 27 Photos. This is the phrase which Alessandro Michele, who is currently the CEO of GUCCI, is guided by. On the previous weekend, in a poignant lockdown diary, Michele had announced Gucci’s departure from the traditional show cycle in favour of a seasonless approach to collections. Why not just celebrate it? The Italian creative ‘Fashion Designer,’ Alessandro Michele is the Director of Gucci. I ask him if that makes what he is doing post-fashion. Style On the night between Saturday and Sunday, Alessandro Michele posted a statement, a declaration of intent that smells of revolution, on the Gucci Instagram account . Overwhelming. Young consumers plant their flags and sculpt their images on social media, so Gucci, under Michele, does too. They wore berets, spectacles, scarves. He calls this era "post-human", explaining that "you can really manipulate everything. "I didn't realise," Michele says, "that if you clicked on the picture and made it larger, there was a little guy inside. Michele's Gucci, in contrast, is engaged in a consistently spirited and occasionally profound conversation with the zeitgeist, drawing from it, adding to it and revolutionising fashion in the process. When Bizzarri met Michele, then 42, for coffee one day in late December 2014, he was just trying to learn more about the company. The strangest part was that it all came from Planet Earth. But mostly, he just didn't think about the insanity of what he was trying to pull off. ... 25 May 2020. ", Hari Nef recalls that when she first met Michele, at his request, over dinner in West Hollywood at the Chateau Marmont, she had recently graduated from Columbia University, "this program where I had been required to read Virginia Woolf and the Greek tragedies and Homer and Aeschylus. I started from other points of view. He's also a Christmas tree, ornamented to a fare-thee-well. How Gucci’s Alessandro Michele Changed “Peacocking” Photo by Glen Luchford for Gucci. "It's like a laboratory, you know?" That's important. Bizzarri then laid down a challenge that became fashion legend. Like most of the fashion industry, Alessandro Michele has been using the lockdown period to reflect while self-isolating at his home in Rome–reaching some major decisions about the future of Gucci in the process. Boxes upon boxes of jewellery crowd the tables where they sit. Models carried replicas of their heads at Gucci’s autumn 2018 fashion show in Milan. And so, in an attempt to give us just that, the former accessories designer has offered up a change of direction for the brand’s latest campaign. In short, they know, like Darwin did, that it’s those with the best plumage who will stand out in a crowd. Instead, their holiday home teeters – literally – atop a gorgeous, ludicrous butte of sorts called Civita di Bagnoregio in central Italy. At one point, I ask him which of his collections he was most pleased with – which one expressed exactly what he wanted it to. That changed in a blink, in one of the most unexpected and consequential fashion stories of the last quarter century. "I walked through these antique ruins from the very first day of my life," he tells me when I visit him there in June. His mother was an assistant to an Italian movie executive, and thus steeped in the world of cinema, while his father, a technician for the airline Alitalia, was a sculptor in his spare time. Just like his ready-to-wear designs, which jumble elements, patterns, time periods and allusions that were seldom if ever jumbled before: pussy bows on men's shirts, babushkas atop power suits, sneakers under gowns, stripes with plaids, the old-fashioned meeting the space age. How Alessandro Michele made Gucci relevant again. Style On the night between Saturday and Sunday, Alessandro Michele posted a statement, a declaration of intent that smells of revolution, on the Gucci Instagram account . “Alessandro Michele has reinvented the brand, but rather than prescribing exactly who the new Gucci woman is, he has invited individualism and self-expression to reign free,” explains Sarah Rutson, the vice-president of global buying at Net-a-Porter. Alessandro Michele of Gucci has something to say, something long overdue. It comes together incrementally and sometimes haphazardly, in a fitful and imperfect process of discovery, the way every story and every city does. 27 Photos. "It is an act of love towards the whole system. When Alessandro Michele made his catwalk debut as Creative Director of Gucci, his aesthetic changed the face of fashion. Neither of them look at each other, but the peacock’s eyes do all the talking, much like they would in an actual mating ritual. "I was aghast at these kinds of things," he says, but he played along, connecting with one of his friend's 700 acquaintances – Attili – because of his profile picture. Aug 2, 2020 - Explore Leslie Henderson's board "Alessandro michele gucci", followed by 114 people on Pinterest. Alessandro Michele had been working for Gucci since 2002 and served as Frida Giannini's deputy and head accessories designer. The Italian brand has joined the chorus of brands and retailers calling for a … And he's just very down-to-earth. Attili, amused, pointed out that his face was right there, in that landscape. So in times of uncertainty for the industry, Alessandro has emerged, sharing intimate pages from his private diary while quarantined in Rome proposing A New Creative Universe for Gucci to change the face of fashion once more.
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